Archive for September, 2009

Six Steps to Planting and Watering

Have you ever planted a new lawn only to be disappointed in how she grew up in? What happened? Watering the new lawn is completely different from how the existing lawn watering. In fact, proper irrigation is becoming one of the most important elements after planting is completed.

Here’s why. Seeds should be resistant to moisture germinate. Germination times vary by seed types, but most of the lawn seed germination from 5 to 21 days. The best way to store seeds is slightly damp sprinkling Seeded lawn area at least two or three times a day. Be taken to ensure the soil does not dry out. The seeds can die if they are allowed to dry after the seed begins germination process. Your lawn may require more frequent watering depending on the type of soil, weather, temperature and wind.

Remember that the best time for planting grass Cool season grasses and warm autumn season best planted in spring.

Step 1: Preparing the soil for seeds. If overseeding an existing lawn, mow grass and remove the low cut-off before planting. When planting grass seed on bare ground or sparse grass, loosen the upper layer of soil with a half-inch steel rake those seeds can rake in after spreading. You can include “starter” fertilizer, if necessary, based on the results of tests of the soil. It can be applied before or after sowing. Starter fertilizer containing higher amounts of phosphorus (middle number on the fertilizer bag) than regular fertilizers.

Step 2: Distribution and rake the seed into the ground so covered with a thin layer. The use of heavy rates listed on the bag when boarding grass seed in bare soil and is easier when the stakes are overseeding established lawns. Most seeds can be spread using rotary or drop spreaders. Check the bag to see how deep your seed be. Some seeds, such as Buffalo grass seed should be as deep as 1 inch, while most other seed should be raked in so it is no more than one-quarter to one half inch.
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